Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
gandog56

Blue Dot

Recommended Posts

Shadow your a Glock guy. I'm an armour and the things I do to my guns raise eyebrows. .hahaha. I'm running a lonewolf G20L slide "solid top". I went with solid for the mass and now I'm thinking it may be retarding my action and contributing to my pressure issues. I have a captured steel guide rod running a 17# spring. I have 20 and 22# pound springs because I was anticipating heavy recoil but that hasn't been the case. The heavy slide puts factory brass at my feet and the pipe bomb brass only travels about 6-8 feet. This is a tank of a gun just an FYI if you were ever looking to go big.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm certainly no expert, and probably not one to give advice on reloading, but if those were mine, I'd back the powder off a little. I like to keep the "boom" inside the gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with ya. I've got a lot of factors working against me and I should have worked up my load instead of just doing 10.5gr of blue dot first. I think my set up may push 200gr XTP's over 1200fps with only 9.5gr. We'll see when the bullets I ordered arrive.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hulka that round chroned at 1508fps with 180gr Ranier Plated HP. I stopped after that shot.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I'm not an armour, but looking at that very "SMILED" brass I'd say the gun is unlocking too early! Take you barrel out place that brass in the chamber and look to see if the "smile" exceeds the properly headspaced as seated...If the case is above the barrel hood every so slightly or even more, its is possible the slide moved rearward to soon as it unlocked.

 

Mike Willard of SwampFox ammo did experience issues with with his higher impulse ammo when testing with the longer barrels, but the pressure hits it's peak as the bullet moves as it entering the trueing cone and sealing the bore, then pressure drops off, but still applying force to the bullet the entire length of bore travel.

 

You say you are using a captured recoil spring...have you tried a non captive recoil system? I am using the Wolff Gun Springs non captive recoil rod and springs in my G-20SF. I did make measurements with the factory captive and the Wolff non captive and found it took a little over a pound more to break from lock up!

Here are those measurements;

 

Glock 20Sf Factory spring test
It takes 5lb 3oz to start the slide to move from the locked position
Full retraction at 18lb 0oz at lock open


Glock 20SF spring test Wolff Gun Springs 22lb RSA installed

It takes 6lb 4oz to start the slide to move from the locked position
Full retraction at 22lb 9oz at lock open

 

Glock 20SF spring test Wolff Gun Springs 24lb RSA installed

It takes 7lb 6oz to start the slide to move from the locked position

Full retraction at 24lb 1oz at lock open

22-Slightly over a pound difference 1lb 1oz to start the slide to move from the locked position

24-Slightly over a pound difference 2lb 3oz to start the slide to move from the locked position
22-Slightly over a 2 pound difference 2lb 9oz at lock open

24-Slightly over a 6 pound difference 6lb 1oz at lock open

 

I have read of others, that their captive RSA's just drop out from the position, as the take the slides off their gun. It is that reason, that I think the non captive setup is adding to maintaining lockup, just a little longer, that keeps the case inside the chamber fully, supporting the brass. I am not getting "SMILES" even with my factory barrel or the LWD 9X25 Dillon 6" conversion.

 

Best regards, check us out over here too; http://10mm-firearms.com/index.php

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's my thoughts too. I'm gonna swap to the 22# spring. Being a Glock armour isn't anything special. You spend 8hr in a classroom every few years taking the guns apart and putting them back together. ..hahaha. They don't approve of making changes to the firearm only repairing it with "factory" parts. A Glock will always work with factory parts and spec ammo. It gets complicated when you put in aftermarket parts and start tweaking your ammo. To me it's a fun process trouble shooting my problems and fixing them.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me it's a fun process trouble shooting my problems and fixing them.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, a true understanding of the processes that are going on and learning what works in conjunction with the ammo and parts selected. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey folks I'm new here was looking for some insight into reloading 10mm. This is my situation. I built a custom Glock 20 Long slide with a 6.62" barrel. Everything I read said 10.5gr of Blue Dot would give me upper 1200 to 1300fps with 180gr jacked bullet. I think my mistake was using Ranier "plated" hollow points instead of "Jacked" hollow points. I got bulged cases and smashed primers with velocitys averaging in the 1480's one of the dozen I fired was 1508...WOW. Any thoughts? Am I right in assuming the plated bullets swagged like a lead bullet and created more pressure?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Was it Ranier or was it Berrys who says don't exceed 1200 fps with their bullets?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe it was Rainier that set the speed limit on thier bullets, In my personal experience They literally shred on the way out of the barrel. Leaves a nasty jagged rip in the target. While shooting at a gong at 200 yds, I was missing sometimes by ten feet, I am thinking what the hell is it me or the new loads.....I put in a fresh mag of Gold Dots and hit it with the next five shots in a row. Plated bullets may be OK with 45's but they do not work so well in full power 10mm's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bluedot is my goto for my delta and omega, get really good groups. I've been running around the top end of the charts for mine, shows no sign of pressure, but that's my 2 pistols. Also had real good luck with IMR 800-X, same groups, but about 75 fps higher out of both mine. Have a friend of mine that has a glock (stock barrel) and his chrono's slower than mine, I've got a higer spring rating so think that has something to do with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rainier has limits similar to solid lead projectiles. Keep it around 1,000 and it should be ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me see here.....load a 10mm down and what do you have? A 40S&W. kind of like saving 357mag brass and loading them at 38spec specs, WHY?

 

The ten was originally designed to shoot a 200gr. bullet @ 1250fps. If you are handloading shouldn't your rounds be as good or better than stock?? You can be sure that mine are.

Edited by dan10mmman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.